Historical and cultural heritage

Auvergne

The ALLIER birthplace of the Bourbons, seat of the Lords of La Palice, has hundreds of chateaux, fortresses and mansions full of character: the medieval fortress at Bourbon-l'Archambault, the chateau de Busset, chateau de Chareil-Cintrat, chateau de Fontariol, chateau de La Palice ... (Allier)

MOULINS, capital of the Bourbonnais country (City of Art and History). Discover its monuments such as the Clock tower with its animated figures that sound the hour, the ancient city centre with wood-panelled houses, the Mal Coiffée castle and Anne de Beaujeu museum, the cathedral housing the celebrated triptych by the Master of Moulins (15th century). Not forgetting the new centre for conte mporary illustration. (Allier)

VICHY: private mansions of varying styles, extravagant domes, wrought iron balconies, Art Nouveau, Art Deco, Neo-Moorish, Neo-Classic, Vichy is full of architectural treasures and surprises. Like the facade of this villa, a replica of a Venetian palace. (Allier)

NOT TO BE MISSED AT ANY COST: Romanesque art in the five so-called “major” churches, because of the wonderful homogeneity of their architecture. Saint-Austremoine in Issoire, Saint-Nectaire, Saint-Saturnin, Notre-Dame d’Orcival, Notre-Dame-du-Port in Clermont-Ferrand. (Puy-de-Dôme)

THE CREUX DE L’ENFER (depths of hell), Thiers: located in the picturesque Durolle valley, the Creux de l’Enfer is a contemporary arts centre housed in former cutlery workshops. (Puy-de-Dôme)

CHATEAUX IN PUY-DE-DÔME, to mention just a few: Chateau de Cordès: an impressive 15th century chateau, on the historical monuments list. Superb classic French style gardens laid out by Le Nôtre. Murol: masterpiece of medieval military architecture, where a new legend of chivalry is staged each year. Saint-Saturnin: set in one of the Most Beautiful Villages in France stands a perfect example of a big medieval castle – which once belonged notably to Catherine de Medicis.

THE SCENIC MUSEUMS OF LA TOINETTE ET JULIEN AND THE MYSTÈRES DE FARGES bring the former inhabitants of the Sancy mountain range back to life, based on the history of two places: Murat-le-Quaire in the 15th century, and Saint-Nectaire since the Middle Ages. Including a visit to a cheese cellar, where the Auvergne’s unique Saint-Nectaire cheese is made. www.toinette.com and www.farges.fr.st .

CHATEAUX IN CANTAL, among others: Anjony: the fortified 15th century keep to which were added living quarters in the 17th century. Remarkable set of 16th century wall-paintings, including the scene of the Neufs Preux (nine noble heroes) in the hall. La Trémolière: the ten 16th century Fantastic Bestiary tapestries which are on the historical monuments list. Pesteils: 15th century frescoes, 17th century painted ceilings. From the top of the keep, 40 metres high, an unforgettable view of the Cantal mountains. Sedaiges: a unique example of 19th century Troubadour architecture. Scenes from Les Malheurs de Sophie are recreated in the salons. Period figures and costumes, old toys, ceremonial tableware, etc. (Cantal)

THE CATHEDRAL OF LE PUY-EN-VELAY (UNESCO world heritage site): Marial sanctuary with origins dating back to the 5th century, and which was the site of one of the most important Virgin Mary pilgrimages between the 11th and 16th centuries. The mysterious Black Virgin statue burned in 1794, the 12th and 13th century frescoes and sculptures, recall the links between this cathedral and Middle East Christianity. Also worth seeing are the 12th century cloisters and the museum of religious art. (Haute-Loire)

Limousin

WAR VICTIMS MEMORIAL AT ORADOUR-SUR-GLANE, THE MARTYR VILLAGE: on 10th June 1944, nearly 200 soldiers of the Das Reich division surrounded the town, gathered the population on the market square, then took the men to the barns where they were machine-gunned and burned. The women and children were shut into the church to suffer the same fate. The ruins of the martyr village, listed as a historical monument, bear witness to this barbaric atrocity. The War Victims Memorial places Oradour in the context of the Second World War and the Nazi regime, while helping perpetuate the memory of those who died. (Haute-Vienne)

THE HOOP-WOOD CIRCUIT, of craftsmen working to produce hoop-wood - fine strips of chestnut wood used by young designers for furniture and decorative purposes. Workshops and artist’s shops are open for visits. The circuit has been set up by the Association du Marron et du Châtaignier Limousin, Dournazac. Visit Serge Chevrier’s workshop where he produces hoop-wood, in Bussière-Gallant. (PNR Périgord-Limousin. Haute-Vienne)

CHURCH TREASURES, AMBAZAC: the Ambazac shrine and

so-called “Saint Stephen of Muret’s” dalmatic, two of the most important medieval masterpieces preserved in France.

(Haute-Vienne)

The glass windows of the collegiate CHURCH OF EYMOUTIERS:the sixteen glass windows of the collegiate church of Eymoutiers form the most important set of ancient stained glasswork in Limousin. Made in the second half of the 15th century. (Haute-Vienne)

MASGOT is a very picturesque Creuse village, and also an open air museum. A stone masons’ village, dotted with the naive-style sculptures of François Michaud (1810-1890). Everyone is welcome to try out his stone-cutting skills here. (Creuse)

A listed historical monument THE CASTLE OF BOUSSAC was built in the 12th and 13th centuries. On the lintel to the entrance door can be seen the arms of Jean 1st de Brosse, one of Joan of Arc’s companions. The writer George Sand had a room here where she wrote her Journal d’un voyageur pendant la guerre. (Creuse UNIQUE: the scenic presentation at Bénévent-l’Abbaye. Come and share everyday life with Marion, a young Creuse countrywoman of strong character, and the pharmacist Paul Pelissier in the 1880s. This show-cum-journey of an hour takes you back to discover the knowhow and history of the country thanks to the latest technological means (3D images, odorama, and so on) for an unforgettable holiday memory. Tel. + 33 (0) 555 626 835. (Creuse)

MAUGEIN ACCORDIONS in Tulle: Maugein have been making accordions in Tulle since 1919. This is the oldest brand in France, and produces the only French diatonic accordions. The Accordions section in the Cloître Museum contains a unique collection of accordions with certain exceptional items from the 19th century. (Corrèze)

LES PANS DE TRAVASSAC at Donzenac Slate, frequently found on the roofs of lowland Limousin, was already used in slab-form in Gallo-Roman times. The slate workers at Travassac, 10 km from Brive-la-Gaillarde, still work open-air quarries today. Shaped into squares or fish-scale shapes, the slates are most often destined for restoration work on private houses and historic monuments. Guided visits all year round. www.ardoisieres.com (Corrèze)

BRIVE-LA-GAILLARDE. There are probably two reasons for the name gaillard: today it means brave and cheerful, but gaillard also meant “fortified” in the Middle Ages when the city was indeed fortified. This is a welcoming city, full of sunshine, with a very interesting historical centre, an astonishing “light-house - water tower” and a magnificent palette of flower gardens. Tel. + 33 (0) 555 240 880 , www.brive-tourisme.com . (Corrèze)

Lozère

There are two important sites from Gallo-Roman times in the Lozère department: Javols, known as Gabalum in those ancient days and was the capital city for a tribe, and where archaeological diggings have revealed houses, a basilica, baths, a theatre, a forum and at least one temple located beneath the present-day cemetery. And the Lanuéjols Mausoleum (Tarn gorges), an exceptionally interesting monument since it is one of the very rare specimens of Gallo-Roman funeral architecture (second half of the 2nd century), and the only one in France apart from that at Saint-Rémy-de-Provence.

Metallurgy Museum, Saint-Chély-d’Apcher: find out about how metallurgy began, the men and their tools, social events, the use to which the products manufactured were put, and so on. Tel. + 33 (0) 466 312 938.

Aven Armand (Meyrueis): an exceptional site in which to discover the hidden world beneath the limestone mountains. A world record is held by the Grande Stalagmite which is almost 30 metres in length. Tel. + 33 (0) 466 456 131.

On the Festivals route

Let’s imagine the programme of someone thirsty for culture who decides to attend all the festivals that take place in the Massif Central. From village square performances and stages and rows of seats, his journey would lead him all year round from sacred music concert to theatre performance and from outdoor reading to the colourful splendour of a medieval festival. There would be two high points in his diary: the summer and early autumn when performances multiply.

In Auvergne, our culture enthusiast will share his emotions with everybody who meets up in Gannat at the “World Cultures” Festival. More than 400 musicians, dancers, storytellers and craftsmen and women gather there every year in July to celebrate several days of festivities without borders. http://www.gannat.com .

If he goes to Aurillac, his excitement will still be at fever pitch. The Festival International de Théâtre de Rue (Street Theatre Festival) gets town and spectators all worked up by inviting the most creative and innovative troupes of the day along for a huge four-day outdoor theatre event at the end of August. http://www.aurillac.net .

Thrills then rise to new heights at La Chaise-Dieu. Its International Classical and Sacred Music Festival has given itself the task of rehabilitating forgotten composers and great works that have possibly sunk into oblivion. To do so, it brings together internationally renowned performers who come to play and sing in the magnificent setting of the old Benedictine abbey. http://www.chaise-dieu.com .

When winter comes, our culture fiend will be able to warm up in Clermont-Ferrand’s movie theatres where the International Short Film Festival is held at the end of January. Some 140 films are shown there every year and form an overview of worldwide annual production of every genre: fiction, documentaries, cartoons, experimental films, etc. http://www.clermont-filmfest.com .

In Limousin, he will begin with an unusual experience, one which every summer, from mid-July to mid-August, allows people to listen to wonderful, wandering voices in the setting of the Creuse’s superb Romanesque monuments. This is the Voix d’été en Creuse festival. Information on + 33 (0) 544 302 347. Attracted by the leading event of the cultural year in Limousin, he will be keen to follow Les Francophonies which take place for a fortnight at the end of September and beginning of October. Performers from every background will invite him to share in the pleasures of the French language – acted, spoken, danced or sung on stage and also in the streets and bars. http://www.lesfrancophonies.com .

This taste for laughter will be found in sparkling form at the Salon International du dessin de presse et d’humour. Irony, caricature and sharp wit are let loose for the biggest European event of its kind in Saint-Just-le-Martel, also in September and October. http://www.st-just.com .

Meanwhile, our culture fan won’t fail to have missed swaying to the sound of the accordion in Tulle during the Nuits de Nacre which, in mid-September, celebrate the pleasure of meeting and exchanging among musicians from every background, whether well-known talents or unexpected discoveries. Dee Dee Bridgewater, Juliette Greco and Jacques Higelin have all performed there. http://www.accordeon.org .

A higher altitude awaits him in May thanks to a foray into Lozère to discover the Fête de la Transhumance, a pretext for a host of events (col de Bonnecombe). When the spring sunshine becomes warmer (May 25th), it’s time to take the cattle up to the summer pastures; cowherds with their herds of Aubrac cattle decked out in their Sunday best and cowbells revive an age-old tradition. In July, he mustn’t miss the frenzy of street entertainment for Marvejols en Scène as the town beats to the rhythm of traditional and world music, drama or reading, dance and parades. http://www.ville-marvejols.fr .

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